Beware, “organic” wines hide a sad reality: here’s why you should avoid them
We are seeing a worrying development in the French wine world. Environmental labels, which are supposed to promote the efforts of winegrowers, now seem to be a source of frustration and economic difficulties. As wine professionals, we are wondering about the future of our quality viticulture.
The agroecological transition: an investment with no return
French winegrowers are facing increasing challenges in their quest for more environmentally friendly production. Labels such as Bio, HVE (High Environmental Value) and Terra Vitis impose considerable technical and economic constraints. These certifications require:
- Investments in suitable equipment
- An increase in working hours
- Hiring additional staff
Unfortunately, these efforts do not translate into adequate financial valuation . On the contrary, many producers find themselves economically and physically weakened. This situation is all the more alarming since environmental commitment now seems to be considered a prerequisite for accessing markets, without guaranteeing fair remuneration.
As we travel through French vineyards, we have seen first-hand the challenges these enthusiasts face. Their dedication to producing quality wines while respecting the environment is admirable, but the lack of financial recognition is glaring.
Technical challenges and international competition
The year 2024 was particularly trying for French winegrowers. Faced with difficult weather conditions, they found themselves helpless to combat cryptogamic diseases. This situation contrasts with that of other producing countries that have broader phytosanitary alternatives.
This disparity creates a distortion of competition that is detrimental to our winegrowers. The IGP wine federation proposes an interesting solution: the implementation of mirror clauses that would impose the same standards on all producers, regardless of their origin. This approach would level the playing field and promote the environmental efforts of our winegrowers.
As sommeliers and enlightened amateurs, we can only support this initiative which would promote fairer competition while preserving the quality and authenticity of our regions.
An unsuitable insurance system
French viticulture faces another major challenge: the inadequacy of the Multi-Risk Climate Insurance (MRC) system. This system, based on an Olympic average, no longer reflects the productive reality of the farms. Here is an overview of the main criticisms:
| Issue | Impact |
|---|---|
| Calculation based on obsolete average | Underestimation of real losses |
| Lack of flexibility | Inadequacy to current climate variations |
| Administrative complexity | Discouragement of winegrowers from taking out insurance |
A complete overhaul of this insurance system is necessary to ensure adequate protection of our vineyards against increasingly frequent and intense climatic hazards. Our experience in the field has shown us how crucial this issue is for the sustainability of many farms.
The uncertain future of French viticulture
The picture painted by the IGP wine confederation is worrying. The recently announced budget cuts to the National Institute of Origin and Quality (INAO) only add to the concern. This decision could compromise efforts to promote quality labels, which are essential for promoting our terroirs to the general public.
Faced with these challenges, a question arises: do we really want to preserve quality viticulture in France ? The growing discontent among winegrowers is understandable and reflects a deep malaise. As wine enthusiasts and professionals, we cannot remain indifferent to this situation.
It is urgent to rethink our approach to viticulture to ensure its sustainability. This requires better promotion of environmental efforts, adaptation of insurance systems and increased support for the promotion of our appellations. This is the price we pay to continue to taste and share the wonderful wines that our terroirs have to offer.
