Côte de Nuits, ten reds built for ageing

It is the northern half of Burgundy's vineyards, south of Dijon, around the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges. It is almost entirely planted with Pinot Noir and produces the region's most sought-after reds. Five of its villages feature in this collection: Marsannay, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Morey-Saint-Denis, Gevrey-Chambertin and Vosne-Romanée.

Because supply there is scarce and expensive to buy, even for a wine merchant. We prefer ten wines followed closely from five identified estates rather than a broad range built on wines we do not taste. Prices range from €28.00 to €105.00, with a median price of €79.90.

With Alain Guyard's Marsannay Les Genelières 2018, at €31.90. It is the only bottle on the page under €35.00 that you can order individually, and its vintage already makes it enjoyable tonight. Olivier Guyot's Marsannay rosé Fleur de Printemps is listed cheaper, at €28.00, but it is only offered in packs.

The village name refers to a broad area, whereas a premier cru refers to a specific plot, classified for the consistent quality of its grapes, whose name appears on the label. On this page, these are Les Blanchards and Les Ruchots in Morey-Saint-Denis, and Clos des Argilières and Les Porets St Georges in Nuits-Saint-Georges. In practice, the cru gives a denser wine that takes longer to open up, for a price €23.90 to €50.00 higher depending on the case.

The 2023 village wines can be drunk now if decanted and will improve for three to five years. The 2023 premiers crus rather need five to ten years to reveal their substance. The 2022 rosé should be drunk without waiting, and the 2020 and 2022 bottles already in the cellar can be opened for an occasion while continuing to develop.

Yes for the young vintages, especially the 2023s, which open up after an hour's aeration. A wide decanter is enough; there is no sediment to separate in wines of this age. For the 2018 and 2020 wines, a simple decanting twenty minutes before serving avoids rushing a wine that has already settled.

Entre 15 y 16 °C, nunca a la temperatura ambiente de un salón con calefacción. Por encima de 18 °C, el alcohol domina y la fruta del pinot noir desaparece. Media hora en un lugar fresco antes de la comida basta para devolver a su punto una botella sacada de un armario.

Pinot Noir for ageing pairs with roast or slow-cooked red meat, beef and lamb first and foremost, as well as with game. The youngest and supplest cuvées, from Marsannay, also go very well with roast poultry or charcuterie. Mature premiers crus stand up to a bloomy-rind cheese.

Because the Côte de Nuits is red wine territory: our selection includes nine reds and one rosé, without a single Chardonnay. This is not an oversight; it is the reality of this part of the vineyards. For white Burgundies, you need to move on to the Côte de Beaune, which offers nine.

Five producers, two of whom dominate the page: Domaine Dubois with four bottles, in Nuits-Saint-Georges and Vosne-Romanée, and Rémi Jeanniard with his three Morey-Saint-Denis wines. They are joined by Olivier Guyot with the Marsannay rosé, Alain Guyard with the red Les Genelières and Trapet-Rochelandet with the Gevrey-Chambertin Vieilles Vignes.