Warning: Chablis wine in danger! The 2024 harvest threatened by crazy climate
As wine enthusiasts, we were struck by the challenges facing the Chablis vineyards in 2024. This year will be remembered as one of an exceptionally reduced harvest, highlighting the vagaries of an increasingly unpredictable climate.
A 2024 vintage marked by climatic hazards
The Chablis region has had a particularly trying 2024 for its winegrowers. The weather conditions have played a real tour de force, putting the resilience of the vineyards to the test. The 2024 harvest is expected to be half that of 2023 , a situation that worries local producers.
Paul Espitalié, president of the Chablis Commission, told us that winegrowers had to face a series of climatic challenges:
- Spring frosts
- Hail episodes
- Mildew attacks
- Excessive precipitation in spring and early summer
Despite these obstacles, producers remain optimistic about the quality of the grapes harvested. “The wine today has a lot of fruit, with notes of grapefruit and lemon rather than ripe fruit,” Espitalié tells us. This characteristic freshness promises a very pure and clean style of Chablis.
Adaptation of winegrowers to climate change
Faced with these challenges, Chablis winegrowers are not sitting idly by. We have observed a real evolution in the region's winegrowing practices. Producers are implementing innovative solutions to protect their precious vines:
| Method | Description |
|---|---|
| Heating propellers | Large fans equipped with heating systems to warm the air |
| Heating wires | Cables installed along the vines to prevent frost around the buds |
| Late pruning | Delays bud break to reduce the risk of spring frost |
These adaptations demonstrate the responsiveness of winegrowers to a climate that Paul Espitalié describes as “crazy.” He emphasizes: “It’s not just global warming; we’re talking about a climate that has become unpredictable. Some years, we experience drought and heat waves, and the following year, we receive two to three times more water.”
The future of Chablis: between tradition and innovation
As passionate sommeliers, we are fascinated by the way Chablis combines its heritage with the innovations needed to adapt to climate change. The region is exploring new avenues to preserve the identity of its wines while adapting to new climate realities:
- Research on Chardonnay grape rootstocks
- Considering later-ripening varieties
- Advancement of harvest dates to preserve freshness and acidity
Paul Espitalié reminds us, however, that the unique terroir of Chablis remains a major asset . "We really have a specific terroir that gives minerality and salinity to our wine. Even in the hottest years, after a few years of aging, you will find this characteristic freshness and minerality."
The Chablis wine industry is also showing encouraging signs of renewal. Nearly a quarter of the estate managers are under 40, bringing a breath of fresh air and innovation. This new generation is contributing to the growth of organic viticulture and the development of wine tourism in the region.
In 2023, Chablis and its surrounding area welcomed 500,000 visitors, mainly from the Netherlands and the United Kingdom. This growing influx is a testament to the undeniable appeal of this iconic wine region, despite the challenges it faces.
