Ice wine: extreme harvests and rare production, discover this exceptional nectar
We recently embarked on an extraordinary journey through the world’s most daring vineyards in search of an exceptional nectar: ice wine. Our quest took us from the frozen shores of Lake Ontario to the dizzying heights of the Alps, where we discovered a fascinating world of wine, shaped by extreme conditions and unwavering passion.
The Alchemy of Cold: Birth of a Rare Elixir
Ice wine , or icewine as it is called in Canada, is the fruit of a unique alchemy between nature and the know-how of winemakers. This exceptional beverage is born when the grapes are harvested frozen on the vine , generally at temperatures around -8°C. This natural process concentrates the sugars and aromas, giving birth to a wine of incomparable richness.
During our trip, we had the privilege of participating in a night harvest in the vineyards of Cave Mont Blanc, in Italy. Perched at 1200 meters above sea level, these vineyards are among the highest in Europe. The local grape variety, the Prié Blanc, has perfectly adapted to these extreme conditions, offering grapes of exceptional quality for the production of ice wine.
The winemaking process is just as exciting. Once pressed, only the concentrated juice flows out, leaving the ice in the press. The result? A nectar with an intense bouquet, with notes of:
- Ripe apple
- Apricot
- Dried fruits
- Honey
Despite its high sugar content (around 120 g/l), the natural acidity of the grape variety provides a remarkable balance, thus avoiding any nausea.
Climate challenges and production at risk
Unfortunately, ice wine production is increasingly threatened by global warming. Nicolas Bovard, president of Cave Mont Blanc, told us his concerns: "Normally, we enjoy the first frosts in November, but in recent years, rain seems to have replaced snow." This reality is reflected in a drastic drop in production, from an average of 3,000 bottles per year to only 500 in 2021.
This phenomenon is not isolated. In Savoie, the Perceval estate faces the same challenges. Pascal Perceval, a passionate winemaker, explained to us that since 2019, the harvests have been less good and production has declined considerably. These testimonies highlight the urgency of preserving this unique wine heritage.
Faced with these challenges, some producers are innovating. Pascal Perceval, for example, has developed a bold technique for his "ice wine" vintage. After pressing, the vats are transported to refuges around Mont Blanc, at an altitude of over 3,000 metres, where nighttime temperatures can reach -40°C. This extreme method produces a wine of exceptional finesse.
Tasting: a unique sensory journey
Our journey ended with a memorable tasting. As a passionate sommelier, I was particularly impressed by the complexity and finesse of these wines. Here is a summary table of the typical sensory characteristics of an ice wine:
| Appearance | Nose | Mouth |
|---|---|---|
| Pale gold to amber | Stone fruits, honey, white flowers | Smooth, balanced, long finish |
Jacquère, used by Pascal Perceval, offers notes of stone fruits and an endless length in the mouth. Served well chilled, this nectar goes wonderfully with foie gras or blue cheese , creating an unforgettable taste symphony.
This journey through extreme vineyards allowed us to understand the passion and dedication required to produce ice wine. Each bottle is the result of a battle against the elements, a rarity to be enjoyed with respect and moderation. Faced with the challenges of climate change, the future of this exceptional nectar remains uncertain, making each tasting even more precious.
